Are you stuck in the house? Me too! Isn’t everyone? To help fill time I’ve been crocheting like mad. And shopping is a challenge so I decided to make my own Easter Baskets this year!
This pattern has been designed to be simple enough that you can substitute whatever yarn you have. Seriously! Anything will work! Have fun with colors and textures, although if you use more than one type of yarn, try to stay as close in weight as you can. A little difference here or there won’t make much difference, but don’t use a bulky yarn with a sport yarn. Unless you are okay with really working those stitches!
Isn’t that cute? It’s the perfect Easter size too! It has 2 dozen plastic eggs in it in that photo. But can be filled however you want.
So let’s get to it. Here’s what you need:
Suggested Yarn: Lily Sugar ‘n Cream
Yarn Weight: Worsted
Shown in colorway: Playtime Ombre and Yellow
Yardage: less than 100 yards
Recommended Hook: 5.00 mm, US – H/8
Dimensions: Basket 5 inches high by 11 inches across, Handle 12 inches at peak
Terms and Abbreviations Used (US terms)
(all stitch abbreviations capitalized for easy identification)
CH = Chain
SC = Single Crochet
CH sp = Chain Space
sh = Shell
DC = Double Crochet
SK = Skip
gr = Group
SLST
MR = Magic Ring
sp = Space
Pattern Notes
- I do not start my rows with a chain 3 as many patterns do. I instead use a stacked double crochet, as explained on this page. Instead of the first DC you may use a standing DC or a chain 3 as you prefer.
- This is a highly adjustable pattern. I used Sugar ‘n Cream cotton but you can use any yarn you want to adjust the size. A bulkier yarn will make a larger basket. You may also increase the number of double rows to make the basket deeper without affecting the pattern.
Pattern Instructions
For Basket
| Row | Details | Stitch Count |
|---|---|---|
|
| Make a magic ring |
|
| 1 | Place 10 DC in the MR, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 10 DC |
| 2 | 2 DC in each stitch around, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 20 DC |
| 3 | (1 DC in the first stitch, 2 DC in the next) x 10, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 30 DC |
| 4 | (1 DC in the next two stitches, 2 DC in the next stitch) x 10, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 40 DC |
| 5 | (1 DC in the next three stitches, 2 DC in the next stitch) x 10, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 50 DC |
| 6 | (1 DC in the next four stitches, 2 DC in the next stitch) x 10, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 60 DC |
| 7 | (1 DC in the next five stitches, 2 DC in the next stitch) x 10, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 70 DC |
| 8 | DC in each stitch around, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 70 DC |
| 9 | DC in each stitch around, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 70 DC |
| 10 | DC in each stitch around, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 70 DC |
| 11 | DC in first stitch, 2 DC in same stitch, (CH 4, SK 6, 5 DC in next stitch) x 9, CH 4, SK 6, 2 DC in same space as first 3 stitches, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 10 CH 4 sp 10 5 DC gr |
| 12 | SC in first stitch, sk 2 DC (3 DC in next space, CH 3, 3 DC in same space, sk 5 DC) x 10, in last repeat only sk 2 DC, join to the first SC with a SLST. | 1 SC 20 3 DC gr 10 CH 3 sp |
| 13 | SLST in each of the first 3 stitches and into the CH 3 sp, 3 DC in first CH 3 sp, (CH 4, SK 6, 5 DC in next CH 3 sp) x 9, CH 4, SK 6, 2 DC in same space as first 3 stitches, join to the first DC with a SLST. | 10 CH 4 sp 10 5 DC gr |
| 14 | SC in first stitch, sk 2 DC [(3 DC in next space, CH 3, 3 DC in same space, sk 5 DC) x 2, (9 DC in next space, sk 5 DC) x 3] in last repeat only sk 2 DC, join to the first SC with a SLST. Fasten off. | 1 SC 20 3 DC gr 10 CH 3 sp |
For Handle:
| 1 | With outside of basket facing you, locate one of the two pairs of edge stitches with chain 3 spaces in them. In the space on the right, place 3 DC, and 3 DC in the adjacent space, turn. | 6 DC |
| 2 | DC in each stitch across. | 6 DC |
| 3-11 | Rep R2 | 6 DC |
| 12 | Rep R2, fasten off leaving tail long enough to join to other side of handle. | 6 DC |
Turn basket around and repeat handle instructions on the other side.
Sew 2 handles together with a whip stitch, and sew in all ends
After all your ends are sewn in and the handle sewed together, find a bowl that your basket will fit around. You should choose something that will stretch the basket and is tall enough to lay the top edge flat against the bowl for the prettiest finish. Next, dip the basket in a mixture of 4 parts water to 1 part Elmer’s glue. Do not soak, as this will cause the colors to bleed. Once dipped, fit the basket around your bowl, press your edges flat against the bowl, and prop the handle up. I used a tall cleaning wipe container with a bag of coffee beans on top. Whatever will hold the handle taut and upright. Leave the bag to dry until it stiffens. This took a little over two days for me, but could be sped up with a hair dryer.